Servicing / Reparing / Re-pivoting a 70s Heuer Carrera Automatic Chronograph with the lengendary Heuer Calibre 12

Here we have an early 70s Heuer Carrera powered by the lendendary Calibre 12 automatic chronograph movement. Much has been said on the web about how groundbreaking this movement is. It was created by the collaboration of Heuer, Buren/Hamilton, Breitling and Dubois-Depraz (the so-called "Chronomatic" team). However, this movement is not to be confused with the re-issued Tag-Heuer Calibre 12 or Calibre 15, which is totally different.

This watch belongs to a friend, who has had it serviced several times by the official Tag-Heuer service centre. (According to him, the watch has never been touched by anyone other than the official service centre.) It failed a couple of years after the last service and considering the cost of servicing it again, he put it in a drawer where it has been ever since.

Before the service, the watch does run, but doesn't manual wind and will only wind automatically. The chronograph module doesn't work, the start stop function doesn't engage and the reset lever doesn't reset the hands, which are all over the place. So I was more than intrigued as to how the movement would present.

Here is the result. Sorry about the quality of this quick shot of it on my wrist. I was rushing to get the watch back to the owner, and so didn't manage to put into my photo jig to get a better shot.

Click the link below to see many more pictures of it on the bench.

Heuer Carrera Automatic Chronograph with the lengendary Heuer Calibre 12, difficult but well worth the effort

Servicing an Beautiful and Funky Retro 70s Everite With Amazing Green Dial - FHF 905

Here we have a lovely Everite with the robust FHF 905 automatic movement. Everite was the brand for the H Samuel jeweller in the UK. The service process is quite straight forward as the watch is running well and no issue before the service.

This is the result after the service.

Funky and retro style case and a lovely green gradient dial.

Movement is the FHF 905 automatic movement.

• Automatic/Manual wind.
• 21600 high beat movement.
• 25.6mm D x 5.4 mm H - 25 Jewels.
• Power reserve approx 43h.
• Movement marked Swiss. 25 Jewels. - Incabloc shock protection.
• Date quickset by pulling out crown for 2 clicks.

Servicing an Original 60s Butex Manual Alarm - AS 1568 Manual Alarm Movement

Here we have a very nice vintage Butex manual alarm watch powered by the lengendary AS 1568 movement in excellent condition. Highly collectible and desirable as this is almost the best of mechanical watchmaking in the 60s and 70s.

Below is the result of the service.

Good example of this lengendary manual alarm movement

Movement is the A Schild 1568 manual alarm movement.

• Manual wind.
• Mechanical alarm function with Date
• 18000 bph movement.
• 25.6 D x 6.9 mm H - 17 Jewels.
• Power reserve approx 46h.
• Movement marked Swiss. 17 Jewels Swiss Made. - Incabloc shock protection.
• Date quickset by back and forth between 24h and 20:30h

Servicing a beautiful original 1957 Omega Constellation powered by the Omega 504 automatic movement

Here we have an orginal 1957 Omega Constellation in its untouched form for many years. First I would like to thank Braddan for allowing me the chance to work on his watch.

I have long been admiring the design  and quality of the Omega Constellation series and this is one of the best examples I have ever seen and worked on.

Below is the result after the service.

All returned to how it should be with the appropriate crown and new crystal.

Essential in any vintage watch collection - Bulova Accutron Spaceview powered by the Bulova 214

Here we have is a mint 1968 mens Bulova Spaceview Accutron.

Bulova invented the tunning fork movement and the Accutron series arguably was their biggest contribution to the watchmaking industry. In fact their logo is in the shape of the tunning fork says it all.

There is a constant "hum" from the watch coming from the tuning fortk, my musician friend says it is an "F" key, whatever that means :-)

For a non-collector, there are a few things worth mentioning about the battery choices for the Accutrons. The mercury batteries excelled in keeping stable current within their serviceable lifes and have much longer storage period unlike silver oxide equivalents. However the tuning fork movements were designed to run on 1.35V and not on 1.55V silver oxide batteries you can buy today. If you put a 1.55V battery into an early Accurton, it could run fast. Some later movements have bigger tolerance in the voltage jump and would run fine. However the watch can be adjusted by a professional watchmaker to run on the new silver oxide battery for a small fee.

The other alternative is to buy Accucell, which is a normal silver oxide battery with a diode soldered at the back to reduce the voltage from 1.55V to 1.35V. Again, I have never tried these batteries.

Worth noting is that this Spaceview is an original and not a conversion. Some heartless watchmakers convert normal Accutrons with a 218 movement into the more sort after Spaceviews by taking dials out or cut around the chapter ring of dials.

Bulova Spaceview Accutron - Bulova 214 Tuning Fork movement

The date of this watch is 1968, with production mark M8 on the back.

Movement:
Movement is the ground breaking Bulova 214 turning fork movement.
Production date: 1960 - 1977

• Electronic controlled tuning fork
• Sweep second
• Setting mechanisms at the bottom of the movement
• 360Hz = 1296,000 beats per hour
• Movemen size: Diameter - 28.7mm, Height - 5.5mm.
• 15 jewels.
• Index and jewelled paws escapement.
• Movement marked Bulova, 214, Swiss Made

Very Nice Vintage Funky Retro 60s Butex Automatic Watch - ETA 2452

Another fine example from my Butex collection. It has a rather unusual design with a mirror polished chapter ring together with the minimalistic cross-hair dial. The design resembles the legendary Universal Polerouter, although without the wonderful and prestigious 215 microtor automatic movement.

60s Butex Automatic Watch - ETA 2452

This watch is powered by the ETA 2452

Features -

• Automatic and manually wind.
• 18,600 bph.
• 25.6mm D x 5.3mm H
• 25 Jewels
• Power reserve 42h
• Rotor marked 25 Jewels, Swiss Made.

Retro 70s Vintage Famous Mondaine Lobster Divers Automatic - Felsa 4462

This is a retro fabulous Mondaine 70s automatic divers watch with a stylish tonneau shaped case with hidden lugs and with a typical 70s tropic rubber divers strap to be used outside the wet suit when diving.

Retro 70s Vintage Famous Mondaine Lobster Divers Automatic - Felsa 4462

Movement:

• Original Swiss made Felsa 4462 bi-directional automatic
• 21,600 high beat p/h.
• 25 Jewels.
• Power reserve roughly 40 hours.
• Size: Diameter - 26mm
• Incabloc shock protection system.
• Rotor marked with the Mondaine logo

NOS 70s vintage handsome Duxot 007 manual sports watch - FHF 96-4 ST

We have here NOS vintage Duxot powered by the common FHF 96-4 ST. It is the same as the 96 ST but with the benefit of the additional date function. This watch has the slightly unusual flat front bezel design which makes the watch stands out from many of the 70s designs and it does look quite smart. It even have 007 reference but I don't know if it is an official endorsement from the James Bond franchaise.

Duxot manual sport watch - FHF 96-4 ST

Movement is the popular FHF 96-4 ST hand wind movement.

• Manual wind.
• 18000 p/h movement.
• 25.6mm D x 4.5mm H - 17 Jewels.
• Power reserve 40h.
• Movement marked Swiss. Seventeen 17 Jewels. - Rufa shock protection.
• Date, quick change by going back and forth between 21-24 hours.

Super Nice Vintage 50s Smiths De Luxe Manual Watch - Smiths 27 CS

Smiths De Luxe manual wind watch. Many watch enthusiasts consider Smiths movements to be technically on par if not superior than those produced in Switzerland. In my opinion, this is certainly true in terms of serviceability. However, its a shame that majority of the Smiths are housed in a chrome plated case and are not as hard wearing than stainless steel case. As a result, we get a lot of Smiths watches with battered cases but with very good dials and well preserved movements.

We have here a Smiths De Luxe in exceptional condition throughtout.

Super Nice Vintage 50s Smiths De Luxe Manual Watch - Smiths 27 CS

Movement:
Movement is the in-house Smiths 27.CS with centre seconds.

• Manual wind.
• 18000 p/h movement.
• 27.07mm - 17 Jewels
• Movement marked Made In England. Seventeen 17 Jewels. - Kif shock protection.

Vintage 70s Jaquet Cobur by Alfex Watch Company Manual Dress Watch - Ronda 1233-21 Manual Movement

Vintage Swiss manual watch under the brand Jaquet Cobur featuring a highly unusual and beautiful dial. A very special looking watch with the unique dial and generous size (35mm without the crown and 44mm from lug to lug). Alfex watch company itself have been quite successful according to Watch Wiki and its main focus are the low to the medium end of the watch market in from 60s onwards. This must be a small production for the watch brand Jaquet Cobur using a higher quality Ronder 1233-21 movement instead of the lower grade pin lever escapement. I just adore the brown textured quadrant divided dial and its typical 70s baton style markers and hands. A very smart looking watch in my opinion.

Jaquet Cobur by Alfex Watch Company Manual Dress Watch - Ronda 1233-21 Manual Movement

Movement:

• Movement is Ronda 1233-21 and its the high grade jewel lever version as well as a high beat 21,600 movement.
• Movement marked Seventeen 17 Jewels, Alfex Ltd, Unadjusted and 1233-21 Swiss and RAX (Ronda import code indicating its a swiss lever)

Vintage 60s Precimax Solid 14K Solid Gold Case Maunual Dress Watch - Peseux 320

Here we have a 60's Precimax dress watch with a lovely dial. With its super slim/flat movement and case, it is designed to fit comfortably on the wrist and under the shirt when the wearer is dressed up like a gentleman! The watch including the crystal is only 7.2mm thick!

Vintage 60s Precimax Solid 14K Solid Gold Case Maunual Dress Watch - Peseux 320

Movement:
Movement is the reliable Peseux 320 hand-wind movement.

• Manual wind.
• 18000 bph movement.
• 23.3mm D x 3.1mm H
• 17 Jewels.
• Power reserve 40h
• Movement marked 17 Jewels, Swiss Made.
• Incabloc shock protection.

Mint Vintage 50s Sully Special NOS Manual Mens Dress Watch - ETA 1080

This is a 50's Sully Special with a very unusual dial. Facetedly cut and partly polished to create the chapter ring of the dial. Also the indexes are create by the machine cut grooves. The result is really elegant and suitable as a dress watch in my opinion. Universal made a similar dial.

Mint Vintage 50s Sully Special NOS Manual Mens Dress Watch - ETA 1080

Movement is the popular ETA 1080 hand wind movement.

• Manual wind.
• 18000 p/h movement.
• 23.3mm D x 4.15mm H - 17 Jewels
• Power reserve 40h
• Movement marked Swiss. Seventeen 17 Jewels. - Incabloc shock protection.

Vintage 70s Sully Special NOS Manual Mens Sports Watch - FHF 96 ST

A very smart vintage Sully Special manual wind sports watch. It has a very nice dark blue sunburst grain silver dial. Sully wasn't a famous brand when it was around but I think they deserved a bit more credit because their watches were nice in my opinion.

Sully Special NOS Manual Mens Sports Watch - FHF 96ST

Movement is the popular FHF 96 ST hand wind movement.

• Manual wind.
• 18000 p/h movement.
• 25.6mm D x 4.5mm H - 17 Jewels
• Power reserve 40h
• Movement marked Swiss. Seventeen 17 Jewels. - Incabloc shock protection.